The rugged trail leads along a moss-covered cliffside before dipping down into the old, evergreen forest. Dirt paths lead through the ferns to riverside clearings and backcountry campsites, the trail leading onward and upward into the green, rolling mountains.
When it comes to natural escapes in northwest Oregon, there are few better places than the Salmon River Trail.
Found just off the slopes of Mount Hood, the Salmon River Trail runs 14 miles along the Salmon River, a scenic waterway fed by the Palmer Glacier on the southwest side of the mountain. As it passes through the Salmon-Huckleberry Wilderness, the water helps feed towering Douglas firs and western redcedars, as well as a prodigious colony of moss, which seems to cover every surface in sight.
On a quiet morning at the tail end of fall, the forest was alive with the blue hues of frosty shadows and the vibrant golds of river shallows bathed in light, as well as the many ubiquitous shades of green. Icicles hung off the rocky cliffs, slowly dripping into streamlets on the trail. Bare trees by the river remained still, save the occasional rustling critters in their branches.
The hike is best done in the spring, summer and fall, since winter snow can make the steeper parts of it a little too dangerous. The lower portion of this hike is at an elevation of about 1,700 feet, while the highest point reaches about 2,500 feet, extending its season a little later than trails up on the mountain. You can always check in with the Zigzag Ranger Station for current trail conditions.
Towering trees dominate the forest on the lower portion of the Salmon River Trail. Jamie Hale/The Oregonian
A footbridge crosses a creek on the lower portion of the Salmon River Trail, about one mile from the trailhead. Jamie Hale/The Oregonian
A rocky portion of the trail near the beginning runs above the Salmon River. Jamie Hale/The Oregonian
There were a few groups of people as well. Most hikers access the trail at the Salmon River West Trailhead, found five miles south of U.S. 26 on East Salmon River Road. (The other side of the trail is serviced by the Salmon River East Trailhead, located south of Trillium Lake, though that part of the hike isn’t covered here.)
From the parking area, the trail runs into the trees and along some rocky cliffs before dipping into the forest alongside the river. This easier section of the hike features big trees, shaded forest and lots of riverside access points, most also used as backcountry campsites. A mile and a half from the trailhead, the trail enters the Salmon-Huckleberry Wilderness, where things change a bit.
The Mt. Hood National Forest requires everybody entering the wilderness area between May 15 and Oct. 15 to fill out a free permit at the kiosk on the trail. Beyond that point, wilderness regulations apply. The trail itself also gets much steeper in this section, leaving the river banks behind as it steadily climbs up into the mountains.
A stunning look across the mountains, seen from a big viewpoint on the trail. Jamie Hale/The Oregonian
A late fall mushroom pops up alongside the trail.Jamie Hale/The Oregonian
The trail steadily climbs up into the mountains after entering the Salmon-Huckleberry Wilderness. Jamie Hale/The Oregonian
After two miles of climbing, the trail forks as it reaches a spectacular viewpoint looking out over the mountains. Go right to walk a narrow path along the steep hillside, or go left to climb up to the top of the slope, where there is space to sit, rest and take in the view. Both paths meet up on the other side of the viewpoint, where the Salmon River Trail continues for many more miles into the wilderness.
The sheer length and diversity of the trail allows hikers several options to explore it. Looking for an easier walk or some time by the river? Stick to the lower portion. Interested in a solid day hike? Go up to the viewpoint and back. Want a bigger adventure? Continue along the Salmon River Trail, or any of the adjoining trails, to your heart’s content.
This area is clearly well loved, and for good reason. The big trees, the flowing water, the moss covering everything – it all feels so inviting. It’s a place where people tend to sit down and stay a while, whether it’s to dip their toes in the water on a warm summer afternoon, or hunt for mushrooms on a rainy day in the fall.
The Salmon River Trail forks as it reaches a big viewpoint, about 3.5 miles from the western trailhead. Jamie Hale/The Oregonian
SALMON RIVER DAY HIKE
Distance: 7.5 miles
Difficulty: moderate
Amenities: backcountry campsites, picnic area at trailhead
This hike is rated moderate for rocky trail surfaces and an uphill climb.
To reach the Salmon River West Trailhead, take U.S. 26 east from Portland. In Welches, just before the Zigzag Ranger Station, turn right onto East Salmon River Road. Follow the road for five miles, then look for the trailhead on the left, just before a bridge over the river.
From the trailhead, follow the trail over the rockier section to reach the flatter part of the forest, where several side trails lead down to the river.
After 1.5 miles, you’ll reach a wilderness kiosk, where you’ll need to fill out a free permit between May 15 and Oct. 15.
In two miles, the trail forks just before a big viewpoint that marks the end of this hike. Go right to walk a narrow path along the steep hillside, or go left to climb up to the top of the slope, where there is space to sit, rest and take in the view. Both paths meet up on the other side of the viewpoint, allowing you to loop back on whichever one you didn’t take the first time.
Head back the way you came to reach the trailhead.
— Jamie Hale
503-294-4077; jhale@oregonian.com; @HaleJamesB
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